GOLF EQUIPMENT

Giant Golf - Giant Golf's New GX2 Irons, by Golf InstructionSelect the Perfect
Iron Set for Your Game

By Frank J. Peter, editor at LearnAboutGolf.com

Having a good set of irons that you can trust is very comforting. Sure, driving the ball is fun, but in a round of golf it's the irons you count on to get you on the green and in position to do well. The good news is that modern technology has made irons easier to hit than ever. This buyers' guide will help you learn the basics of iron design, how they've improved, and which clubs are best suited for your game.

Iron Essentials

Most iron sets consist of a 3-iron through pitching wedge (listed as 3- PW). This accounts for 8 of the 14 clubs you can carry according to the Rules of Golf, leaving room for a putter and three woods. Some players substitute a high-lofted wood for the 3-iron because they find it easier to hit. This is a good strategy. However, stronger players who don't have a problem getting the ball up may still prefer to use the more accurate long irons. Here's a guide to the key features of today's woods:

Blade versus cavity-back

A blade iron offers a smaller hitting surface and a thin top-line (portion of the clubhead viewed at address). It also has more mass behind the middle of the clubhead, sometimes called a "muscle-back," that gives a very soft feeling when hit properly. In contrast, a cavity-back or perimeter-weighted club has more weight around the outside edges of the clubhead to produce a larger sweet-spot. The easiest-hitting irons of all generally have a large cavity-back, thick top-line, and oversize clubface. But increasingly, club makers are offering designs that incorporate the forgiving benefits of cavity- back in a blade style with a thinner top-line. For many traditionalist golfers, this is the answer. Casting versus forging Up until the early 1970s, forged steel clubheads accounted for more than 90% of all irons made. This model involves hammering and shaping the clubhead. Now, investment casting has taken over as the primary manufacturing method. Casting, in which the metal is poured into a mold, costs less and makes it easier to produce the complex shapes of today's perimeter-weighted, cavity-back designs within tight specifications. However, forging is not likely to disappear because many golfers believe it offers better feel and ball "workability." It also offers a cleaner look for the tradition-minded golfer. Hosel offset This is measured from the leading edge of the hosel (where the shaft enters the clubhead) to the farthest front portion of the clubface. Why is it important? A club with offset contacts the ball later than a club without offset. This helps "square" the clubface at impact and reduces the tendency to slice (ball going right for right-handed golfers). Progressive weighting This involves placing a heavier material, such as copper or tungsten, in the sole of lower-lofted irons. This helps lower the center of gravity and get the ball in the air. Progressive weighting is generally eliminated in the shorter irons to help produce a lower, flatter trajectory.

Grooves or scoring lines

Grooves add spin and control to the ball's flight. An iron with no grooves causes the ball to "squirt" off the face. Backspin may decrease distance slightly but greatly enhances control. Karsten Solheim, legendary founder of Ping, brought attention to the value of grooves when players of his clubs with larger, sharper grooves began showing superior control - especially out of rough lies. The USGA strictly controls the depth and distance between scoring lines on the clubface to ensure fairness. Lie This is the angle of the sole (bottom) of the club as it relates to the shaft. Too "flat" a lie places the heel of the club in the air, while too upright a lie angle causes the toe to be in the air at address. Loft This is the clubface angle relative to the shaft, and determines the trajectory of your shots. It varies from about 22 degrees in a 3-iron for a lower, longer trajectory to 64 degrees in a wedge for short, high shots. Satin finish vs. polish or chrome This is merely a cosmetic question. A satin finish can be very attractive, but in general has a duller appearance than polished or chrome-finish clubheads.

Sole

This is the very bottom part of the clubhead. If you look closely at the sole of your club, you'll notice it has a slight curvature from toe to heel and from leading edge to trailing edge. This "camber" or "radius sole" makes it easier to hit consistent shots. Sole width is another factor. A narrower sole works better from fairway and tight lie conditions while a wider sole is better for plush lies.

Frank J. Peter is the CEO of LearnAboutGolf.com, a free website especially for the golf beginner offering extensive golf lessons and golf tips, a golf fitness section, a Lady Golfer section, golf equipment reviews, free newsletter and more.

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